Why does weather always cause larger waves?



  1. 0 Votes

    Surface waves in the ocean are a function of wind blowing over the water.  Waves grow larger as they travel, deriving new energy from wind.  Currents are affected by temperature differences between poles, and by the Westerly winds and the Trade winds.

  2. 0 Votes

    Wave size will increase in proportion to the wind speed, duration and fetch (the area the wind blows over).  Thus huge waves will be generated 120mph winds blowing over a 2000 square mile area for several days (compared to a brief 3 day storm near shore).  However, these waves will appear smaller once they reach the shore due to energy decay from running along the sea floor for several thousand miles.  Exception are when the waves can travel over deep water for a relatively short time before hitting shallower water.  This is one reason why the waves of Hawaii’s north shore are so large during the winter.

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