Energy moves the waves of the ocean–the water droplets themselves only move a bit as a wave passes by. Wind can be the source of that energy, or a plate movement far beneath the sea (which can cause a tsunami). In places where the deep water meets the shallow shore, displacement forms crests that include an air pocket. Even in one spot the waves vary, depending on the wind and other conditions.
Waves and their size depend on many aspects of the wind. The strength and duration of the wind play a great influence in the wave’s size. Even the fetch of the wind—or the distance over which the wind blows—impacts the likelihood of waves and their size. The climate and the elements of the wind will dictate the waves (or lack thereof).
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